Mariana Leyva

About the practice

Studio Kühü: The Art of Natural Colour and Transformation Founded in London in 2017 by Mexican textile artist Mariana Leyva, Studio Kühü is an independent natural dye studio exploring the relationship between colour, material, craftsmanship and circularity. Kühü means “colour” in Otomí, an Indigenous language of Mexico, and colour sits at the heart of everything we do. Our work celebrates ancestral dyeing traditions, giving them a place in contemporary fashion and in the garments people wear every day. We work exclusively with plant-based and other naturally derived dyes, inspired by the richness of botanical materials, traditional textile knowledge and the natural world. Our practice is rooted in the belief that existing textiles deserve a second story. Through natural dyeing, over-dyeing, botanical printing and other artisanal techniques, we transform pre-loved garments, wedding dresses, surplus fabrics and reclaimed textiles, creating new possibilities for materials that might otherwise be overlooked or discarded. Working with designers, brands and individuals, we approach each project as an opportunity to rethink the value of what already exists, celebrating the beauty of imperfection, the individuality of handmade processes and the unexpected possibilities of natural colour. Alongside this bespoke work, we develop our own limited-edition textile collections and ongoing material research, and share what we learn through natural dye workshops at our studio in De Beauvoir. Sustainability runs through the way we work, not only in the materials we choose but throughout our processes. We work towards zero waste: reusing dye baths until they are exhausted, filtering our process water and repurposing botanical residues for further material exploration. At Studio Kühü, upcycling is an act of transformation, creativity and appreciation for the resources, stories and craftsmanship already held within a material. We believe the future of textiles lies not only in making something new, but in seeing the potential of what we already have. Dyeing with soul, story and slowness.